Day Three of the Inca Trail




Day 3 - Inca Trail

Once again we were woken up by the porters at 6am with a cuppa - could get used to this ! We discovered our sleeping bags were quite damp from the leaky tent but with no time to dry them we bundled them into our packs and headed out into the morning for some brekkie. For once it wasnīt raining and the clouds had cleared. We could see \" Dead Womanīs Pass\" the ridge we had come over the previous day. The whole place was transformed in the sunlight, so out came the cameras. It couldnīt detract from the steepness of the trail we had to climb today but the views took our mind off of it for a while.

After an omelette brekkie we set off once again back onto the Inca Trail. The strecthing we had done had helped to wake our legs up and whilst it was steep we could see the ridge we had to get to and had been told it was only an hour up. We stopped halfway at an Inca site which was believed to have been used as a temple that they made sacrifices at during their pilgrimage to Machu Picchu. The views from there were great when we arrived so a few piccies before the cloud once again descended. Evert was suffering with a headache today and seemed out of breath. After the site explanation he let us go on ahead asking us to wait for him at the ridge. The climb was hard work but after the trials of the day before was more enjoyable as the target was visible.

At the top we had time to admire the views which were clear. The sun was out so it was lovely and warm. Once the rest of the group arrived it was time to descend again down steep steps, through another beautiful valley and a natural rock tunnel. At the bottom of this one there was a dark greenish lake - not particularly inviting but was very different scenery from the day before. Evert stopped at a viewpoint to another Inca site where he said to go ahead and explore, he would meet us down at the next camp for lunch. He still wasnīt feel good and I donīt think he fancied the really steep steps up to the site. As we got up there the rain came again so on with the waterproofs as we began to explore. After taking in the site we started the slippery descent back to the trail and enjoyed the relatively flat walk through the wooded areas and streams to the campsite for lunch.

After some stretching and a loo stop William Wallace served us with a hot drink, similar to ribena but made out of purple maize. He went onto make this into a dessert as well - very nice. After another large lunch we started back on the trail for another hour or so of uphill walking. The initial part of the path was very steep, Evert stopped to explain some more plants and point out some expensive orchids before letting us walk on ahead at our own pace.

This section of the walk was beautiful, the path was undulating, sometimes up, sometimes down and sometimes blissfully flat ! The scenery was amazing, although cloudy you could sense the sheer drops at times away from the path. The moutainsides went from wooded to barren as we strolled along, with the odd stream or waterfall trickling past. We went down through one amazing dark, natural cavelike tunnel - the formation of the rock through there was superb. After a while the path began a steady climb to another peak where the views were superb. When we got there the clouds were down, but as we watched the clouds lifted and the views appeared, all very magical.

We waited for the rest of the group, chatting once again to some Canadians and Irish girls we had met before. Then it was time once more to descend to another archaelogical site and ultimately our camp. The first site was believed to have been another temple, with the terraces around it used to grow produce which they stored in small round huts to keep it fresh, utilising the cold and windy climate there. They had also worked out a complicated viaduct system to get water there.

At this point Evert told us to head down the trail, we would come to a pylon where if we went left we would go to see another site, or the right path took you straight to the camp. After passing some slow moving walkers, we had a great walk. The views were superb with the nature and scenery changing on the way down, with the path getting very narrow at times ! At the pylon we swung left and went in pursuit of the other Inca site. The path to there was not so well maintained with a tree down across the path and the tree debris making the path slippery. At one point my right foot slipped and in trying to steady myself lost grip on my left foot. With the added weight of the pack on my back, down I went. Trev came to my rescue lifting up the weight of the pack so I could get my feet back under me - my hero ! After a quick brush off we continued on our way.

The walk was definately worth it. The site was great and the views from it were glorious. You could see the mountain that Machu Picchu is on, the river and valley below and our final campsite. My knees had had it after the steep descent so I wandered down to find a rock to sit on and soak up the view while Trev explored the site. He managed to find steps which others hadnīt and startled the group by popping up unannounced. Trev came and joined me after a while and we sat and had some cookies and haribos admiring the views and watching a helicopter buzz about. As the light began to go we set off for camp in the vain hope of having a hot shower, a relax and a beer before dinner. We were once again first to camp and were careful to choose a different tent from last night. The weather had been great in the afternoon but you never knew when the rain would come again.

We went for an explore, bought a fanta to quench our thirst and then checked out the showers. Having guzzled our drinks we popped back to get our shower stuff and join the queue for the hot showers. Trev was lucky, there wasnīt any queue for him. On the other hand, I had a long wait and for a shower which I would say was tepid, not hot ! Still it was nice to feel clean again after 3 days of sweating with no real wash to speak of. It was time for tea, popcorn and birthday cake. It was Nadiaīs birthday today and our chef had rustled up a cake for her, made out of pancakes and syrup. It was delicious. We then had some free time before dinner, so Trev and I grabbed a beer and headed back to our tent to relax.

Tonight was the final dinner that our chef would cook for us, all of the porters had gone to town on it. From a cucumber they had made a penguin, using carrots for its eyes and beak. On top of the rice they had made a turtle out of egg plant and used carrots once again for his cute little face. We had a feast of meat and salad with jelly for pudding, it was delicious. It was then time to make our presentation to the porters and say our goodbyes to them. We would see a couple of them in the morning for breakfast but other than that their job was over now.

After dinner the music from the bar was turned up and local Peruvian and South American tunes blarred out. It was great as they have standard dances to the tunes, so the guides and Peruvians were teaching the Gringos the moves. Trev and I danced once, but enjoyed supping on vodka while watching the others groove. They have much more rhythm over here than we do !

At 11:30 the music was switched off and we headed up to bed. We had a 4am start so needed as much sleep as possible. Once again though the rain had started making it hard to drop off with the pounding on the tents.